Domaine de Fa, Fleurie, Roche Guillon
Certified organic (biodynamic farming). This is from the Roche Guillon lieu-dit, a steep, terraced climat in Fleurie. It's another high-altitude site, rising to 350 metres above sea level and sits on a west-facing hillside close to Poncié (which we know well from the Vissoux stable). Coincidentally, another newcomer to the area, Frédéric Lafarge, also farms vines on this same hill. Hemmed by forest and stream, this is a beautiful place and the 40 plus year old, biodynamically managed vines are rooted in pink granitic sand mixed through with limestone and clay; a soil known locally as 'gore'. The Domaine is now taking advantage of the new laws in Beaujolais that allow for higher planting densities, and a new trellis has been set up to enable the team to run a taller canopy, "like Bize-Leroy" half-jokes Maxime Graillot.
This is a super-mineral wine with wild florals and forest fruits intertwined with smoky, rocky, hot stone notes. There are ample fine tannins, and a long, perfumed finish with just a pinch of complex, savage notes. It's certainly a more powerful example of this terroir than usual as 50% of the yield was lost to hail resulting in more concentration and tannin. This will be something with age and, as such, the Domaine has held back 25% to release after 10 years.
"Brilliant violet. Primary red/dark berries on the highly perfumed nose, along with suggestions of exotic spices and succulent flowers. Penetrating, spice-laced black raspberry, bitter cherry, and violet pastille flavors stretch out and become sweeter with air, picking up a smoky mineral quality. Rich, in the style of the year, but lively as well. Finishes very long and juicy, with repeating floral and smooth, harmonious tannins that lend grip."
93 points, Josh Raynolds, Vinous