Domaine de Fa, En Besset, Beaujolais, France
The Graillot family have harboured an oenological interest in Beaujolais, as well as a family home there, for some time. They, like several others, see a region which has real potential and that is currently undervalued. ‘En Besset’ is a 5ha plot on granitic hillsides close to Saint-Amour and Julienas, producing concentrated intense wines.
Farmed according to organic and biodynamic principles, they will be certified organic from the 2019 vintage. Their approach mirrors their style of winemaking in the Northern Rhône, looking for similar freshness and perfume from Gamay. The cellars are situated in the commune of Boyer with around 4ha of vines in Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages, 3ha in Fleurie, just under a hectare in Saint-Amour.
Their Beaujolais-en-Besset is redolent of ripe mulberries and damsons with a pure red fruit core and delicate earthy undertones. It has enough weight to support a spot of bottle age but is hard to resist in its youthful pomp. Benefits from 30 mins breathing or decanted if preferable.
Wild-yeast ferments start using Beaujolais process of semi-carbonic maceration using whole bunches (no destemming) in concrete tanks with half the fruit crushed to start the process. Fermentation goes for 9 to 12 days before maturation in large oak foudres and demi-muids. Wines are bottled unfiltered so can throw a light sediment..
Beaujolais "En Besset" opens with a lovely aromatic expression of crushed red berries, with some hints of forest floor in the background. Lively, fresh and delicate attack with intense notes of fresh red fruits and red berries, followed by a complex and mineral finish.